Press and hold: Turns headphones on or off.

There are voice prompts for switching between ANC modes, but there aren't any other sound prompts for other commands. The buttons are also clicky and easy to press. The physical controls are split between both ear cups and are intuitive to use. I saw the instruction for that somewhere else on this forum and it looks easy if you have patience and right attitude.These headphones have a good control scheme. Thanks for any suggestions - yes - on the DRL I didn't mean I was going to connect them to the 12V outlet (although I can see that I wrote that badly), I was just saying if it was disconnected I would connect it when I take the frontpiece off to do the DRL. Not sure how long it actually took since I was gone for six hours, but it was dead as a doormouse yesterday, and started right up when I rode it this afternoon after being on the tender. The tender did charge the battery going direct to the post and metal (for negative). Could be a faulty meter, but I don't know. I did check the battery status with a plug-in meter though, and even after fully charged the meter is dead. So its clearly twice the amperage of the fuse on the 12V outlet. I got a 12V 2amp Peak float tender (draws down and goes dormant when battery is fully charged).

This way the batteries are always maintained at peak charge and always ready to go just unplug the leads to the bike and ride away.Īnd according to what I've read, maintaining a floating level charge this way actually EXTENDS the life of a battery, not shortens it! I've kept all of my MCs and scooters, (for the past twenty years, at least!) on Battery Tender float chargers in my garage constantly whenever I'm not riding them! (Even in the summertime!) The float Battery Tender types are safer and excellent for extended use on bikes because they kick off when the battery is fully charged! (Thas why they call it a 'float' charger, dig?) I don't think you're using a MC type Battery Tender (brand), or even a float charger here! (Because you sure wouldn't be charging a truck with a little 1.5 amp MC float charger!) 1 week scooter (bike), 1 week lawn tractor, 1 week Truck and 1 week off My lawn tractor is still on it's original battery after 8 years by using that method too. Unless your scooter has an alarm on it there is almost no current draw that you have to worry about, just the normal voltage drop a battey has from sitting. I too have a battery tender and I went through two batteries during winter storage before I got the tip to use it for about 1 week per month of storage. Nissanman wrote:For long storage you shouldn't keep the battery on a charger indefinately, it can actually ruin your battery. When starting the Buddy, I did not want to drain the battery by using the electric starter so I kick started the Buddy. About every 2 or 3 weeks I would ride the Buddy for approximately 20 minutes and this was enough to keep the batteries charged.

Our winters are pretty mild so I was always able to find a day in which the roads were clear: no snow, ice or road salt on the roads. I did not connect a Battery Tender to either Buddy, instead I would ride the Buddy in order to charge the battery. I took a slightly different approach last winter when my Buddys were in winter storage. Lots of ModernBuddy members endorsed this plug as a great way to connect the Battery Tender: no tools required, just plug the Battery Tender into the auxiliary power outlet and the Battery Tender will keep your battery charged.

If your Buddy has an auxiliary power outlet (cigarette lighter) then the power socket plug that donkin mentioned is a quick and easy way to connect the Battery Tender to your Buddy. Get done riding grab the plug, stick it in the power socket and you're done. Donkin wrote:Get the optional power socket plug.

Battery buddy case